The hotel where we like to stay in Lviv, one of Europe's most picturesque cities, sits on a small square, a block from City Hall. Cafes and cobblestones, church towers and small shops enchant visitors, though the city bustles with locals going about their daily lives.
Kitty-corner to our hotel is the Saints Peter and Paul Garrison Church, a 17th-century stone building that has long served the military and their families. Each morning during our visit, we woke to the sounds of funerals for soldi